Saturday, December 10, 2011

Dogs on the beach.


The title about says it all.


This picture gives you an idea of the typical appearance of the coastline below Mombasa.  


Look in the background and you can see three boys moving their bicycles down the beach and a guy wearing a blue shirt just sitting on the berm watching us.

Then there's the obligatory appearance of the yellow dog.  There's a yellow dog in every area we visited.  There's a yellow dog in every place you'll ever visit. 


Kukaa. Mbwa nzuri.





The bicycle guys from the first picture showed up to see what was happening.

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Mkokoteni


This isn't in order with the rest of the pictures that are on here. It happens to be in a folder that was started shortly after I arrived in Kenya.

These carts, mkokoteni in Swahili, are everywhere. They are a very common way for small businesses to get goods for their kiosks and dukas from Mombasa to the bush.

This particular cart isn't loaded anywhere near as much as it could be. Sometimes one cart would be piled up 6 feet high with goods and it would take 5 or 6 men and boys to push the thing.

The best part of the cart pushers' day was in negotiating the two approach ramps to the ferry in Mombasa. To get down to the ferry, the cart would try to escape by way of gravity on the way down the steep concrete ramp, with the pushers all forcing the back of the cart down to drag the ground. The back of the cart is equipped with a skid brake made of pieces of tire that will stop the cart by friction in case the puller lets go of the pulling bars. Once across the ferry, the pushers and the puller work the cart across the ramp back and forth, adjusting the course of each pass so that the cart worked its way up hill a little at a time just like a sailboat tacking across the wind.

In the scheme of the local transportation system on the Coast, these carts are the first level used to move goods in large quantities.

Friday, November 25, 2011

Djibouti


This is how I will forever remember Djibouti. The area I was in was hot, brown, and unfriendly.

There are many areas of this small country that are warm, beautiful, and welcoming, but I didn't see those. So this is the way I remember it.

Maybe the day will come when I can visit again with tourism in mind.

Speak the local English, not yours.

You must be positively understood in order to do your job. Just because the country speaks English doesn't mean that you speak the language. The English that you have been speaking all of these years is not the same as the English that you are hearing in country.

Listen to how the local people are speaking English and try to copy it. Speak slowly. Get rid of your Southern drawl. Get rid of your cool guy city accent. Speak the way the people around you are.

Listen to how the equivalent foreign language is constructed and form you sentences the same way. If the literal English translation of the local language puts words out of the order you are used to, then learn to spread that way. "What do you know about our language," may turn out to be "You know what of our language."

Speaking the local English will not sound macho. In fact, it may sound downright high-brow and liberal, but you have to do it. If you speak English the way you have been in the States, then no one will understand a word you are saying and then?

No one will want to work with you.

Deal breaker.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Smile and wave.

The simplest act you can perform as a CA Operator is to smile and wave.

If you can't form a genuine smile, just wave, but don't sit there like a typical high and tight hard-ass staring at people.

Don't force a smile, either. You'll look stupid. Stupid people become targets quickly.

And don't wave big like a kid at the circus. Simply raising you hand deliberately and moving it a bit will let those you are greeting know that you mean no harm.

When in doubt, say nothing.

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Dear Swahili Coast

Dear Swahili Coast,

You will be hearing from me by way of these letters soon.

Only you will know what they mean to me, because only you were here with me these days.

People will, though, read them and possibly strive to know you as I did.

Signed,

Mzungu yako.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Madaraka Day

     After decades of British rule, Kenya gained independence in 1963, on December 12th. To ensure a smooth turnover of power to the Kenyans, the British government supervised them in six months of self-rule. The first day of this self-rule was June 1st, earlier that year. This day every year is celebrated as the national holiday, Madaraka Day.

     We were invited to attend a Madaraka Day celebration in Msambweni. There were many local dignitaries present. Mostly military, police, and local politicians. The ranking civilian for the local population was the District Commissioner- she was the one who invited us and used this day to allow us to switch from our civilian clothes to our uniforms.

     All morning, there were activities and entertainment. Speeches were given by politicians, Imams, Ministers, and members of the military and police forces. Songs, dancing, and theatrical skits, and demonstrations were performed by local civic groups and school children.

A local politician addresses the attendees. Police chiefs
and US Navy can be seen interacting in the foreground.

These dancers are moving in a circle around musicians,
preparing for their part in the celebration.

Here is a short video of their dancing:


There was more dancing and singing as seen in the next video.



At one point a boxing match was held, complete with a referee in whites and the combatants' children serving as corner attendants.


This celebration is held in many different levels all across Kenya, from homegrown activities as we observed to grand affairs in full military regalia. It was a great day to get to know the local population and it was an honor to have been invited to attend in uniform.